There’s a route at the gym that does a great job conveying certain lessons. Whether the setter intended to provide these experiences, or I am simply appreciative of happenstances that have struck me, I know not. Nor do I care whether what I perceive aligns with the designs of the setter. As with literature, being aware of an author’s intent may influence your take on it but need not dictate your understanding. What we gain from any stimulus remains ours, and we may share how we conceive events so as to influence others, which is the same point of reference and influence that I accord to any designer, namely being one voice that calls out from the thicket that any one of us might heed or ignore or accord merit to at any gradation within the continuum thereof.
It’s a 10c, and fairly graded at that. The initial moves are not that difficult, yet you can pump yourself out should you move inefficiently given that it’s an overhung route. Not steeply. Not severely. Enough, however, to feel unforgiving at times, especially if you max out at the grade. What I appreciate about the route, and this has nothing to do with whether or not I enjoy this climb, is that when you reach striking distance of the fourth bolt, you’re not in an ideal position. To linger in this stance would invite rapid fatigue. The next hold is a sideways three-finger pocket. This hold does not appear to be all that exciting and that it is not a hold onto which you can pull down directly, I can see many a climber electing to clip the rope into the nearby carabiner before moving onto it. However, that is a mistake, for despite its apparent awkwardness, you can lean into the hold as you bring up a foot, thereby providing a rather relaxing position. It looks awkward, and requires you to rotate into a restful stance, but it’s an easy clip and a restorative moment that alleviates your forearms should the below sequence had pumped out your arms.
The lesson here is that if you go higher, the route rewards you with an easier clip, helping you continue on your journey to the apex of the climb. For, the next stretch is a little technical and overhung and requires use of some smaller holds, all of which can cause your forearms to burn. Then, after clipping the next bolt, you face a large span in-between your current location and the next, massive hold, which looks to be a sloper. I have witnessed many a climber take here. Rest, and then do the big move to discover a gigantic hold, a lovely jug on which you can rest, for you can make good use of holds as feet to provide a nice relaxing position from which you can recharge to charge the anchor above. Many times I have overheard a climber lament, if only I had done the move, I could have sent this route. Two lessons here, each near each other. Move, fight the pump, search for better lays of options ahead, for sometimes the saying rings true, when in doubt, run it out.